TRANSITION TO SHKODER

Last Monday we had the Peace Corps swearing in event when 41 of us made the formal transition from Peace Corps trainee to Peace Corps Volunteer. The US Ambassador to Albania said some nice words and then we made the oath which is virtually the same when the President is sworn into office and when my wife declared herself an American citizen.  In our case we were not asked to defend the country when under threat.  This is the Peace Corps after all.

It has been a long time since I have been in a graduation ceremony with pomp and circumstance.  I had mixed feelings of aloofness and pride.  My spiral journey is largely an exploration of values – both personal and cultural and this event was clearly designed to reinforce values, as was my wife’s when she with hundreds of others became US citizens. As I write this blog post I now recall that even the most mundane social interactions are statements of values.   As are the most dramatic conflicts.

And I am now in Shkroder a city of 120 thousand in the north of Albania near the border with Montenegro.  There will many blog posts about the city of Shkoder, considered one of the most beautiful in Albania, with a large lake to the north, mountains in the east and bordering the Adriatic in the west.

There is a rich history of independence from invaders, religious diversity, and a strong code of hospitality for guests.  You will be hearing more about the Code of Leke, established by an Albanian Prince in the 15^th century to bring order to combative tribal groups. (Spiral development from RED to AMBER – refer to chart at bottom of blog.)  Anthropologists and historians have suggested this code was based on an oral tradition of laws of behavior that dates back to the Bronze Age and represents humanities first struggle to bring order over escalating conflict.  In honor of  this prince the Albanian currency is called Leke. That will change when Albania becomes part of the EU and the Leke gives way to the Euro – as did the French Franc and German Mark –examples of the spiral evolution toward global world views.

You might want to watch a video that provides an overview of Shkoder,  followed by a hilarious video demonstrating that the Albanians are relatively new to cars and their reluctance to give up their walking and bike habits to an automobile culture.  I have already crossed this intersection several times.  You get used to it.  Notice the insignificance of the traffic cop.

An eight minute video produced by a proud citizen of Shkoder

The busiest traffic circle in Shkoder

So, I have begun my transition from the small town of Librazhd to the large city of Shkoder, from trainee to volunteer, from retiree to university TEFL teacher, from the comforts of home and automobile to frequent walks to market to buy a few items at a time to prepare a simple meal. (Not to worry – I can easily find beer and chocolate and my almost daily Skype with Bettina keeps me calm and committed)

More stories to follow.

MIXED VALUES IN THE SPIRAL

This last Friday I was given my site assignment for the next two years. I have been assigned to a university in Shkodër,  Albania. I will be leaving Librazhd in a week and will move into my own apartment after seven weeks with the family Ruppli.  When I announced my future location the family congratulated me on such a beautiful city in a beautiful region, and I also noticed an edge of sadness that I would be so far away.

I have experienced the traditional family values in Albania. Families here demonstrate openly the deep connection we all have to our childhood relationships with close family – our source of warmth, food and protection.  Those relationships are not usurped easily, as they often are in the US, by the urge for independence and identification with peer groups outside the family. The Aqif Ruppli family has culturally embraced me into their family in the last seven weeks and they are feeling a loss at my impending departure.   I, on the other hand, am anxious for my own apartment in Shkoder and the new work relationships I will make with the faculty at the university.  In my immediate experience the values of traditional culture meet the values of modern culture.

Within a short walking distance of this modest home I pass the homes of two brothers, a cherished mother and uncountable cousins.

You can see the unfinished home above for son

On the hill beside this home there is a partially completed structure which will be the future home of the eldest son. As I continue my walk, I notice that virtually every home has gardens occupying all available surrounding ground, and lines of pots where vegetables will emerge soon, grace of the frequent spring rain and coming warmth. Roses and other flowering plants find their place in the botanical arrangements. It is not unusual to see chickens scratching around the edges.

 

Entrance to my home

At the moment there are eight of us in this small living room, eating in turns at the coffee table with the vinyl table cloth that is cleaned fastidiously between each sitting.  The group includes the immediate family, and two cousins and a grandmother spending the week-end from a nearby town.

Family is life in Albania.  They are constantly asking me about mine.

There is laughter and arguing from moment to moment and pleasant smiles as they see me struggling to understand the meaning of these mild outbursts.

Soon I will go to my own apartment in Shkoder and meet my new colleagues and I will choose my own food and  I will drink my chai mal in solitude by an electric heater. I will begin to plan my classes and the other professional contributions I will make. I am happy as I anticipate this freedom from family responsibility and I am aware of the pride I feel in the strength of my independent self-identity.

My journey here is to support the emerging transition into a market economy and consequently the social values that go with modernity. I am glad for the benefits that I have gained with my modern American values of independence, achievement, equality and progress. My experience in Librazhd has made me aware of the values I have given up.

But I have hope as I continue my spiral journey.  This transition from Librazhd to Shkoder has reinforced my belief that, even as I move into my final decades, there are other destinations, more in mind than place, where my values will integrate in new and satisfying blends.

More news of Shkoder to follow.  Check in out on Wikipedia. I am happy with my site.

More Focus to My Journey

This week-end I went to Tirana, the capitol of Albania and the largest city with a population of about 800,000.   It is also the most modern city. People often say that if you really want to understand Albania you have to go outside Tirana.  Librazhd is far from Tirana in many ways.

 I went to Tirana to attend a conference organized by the English Language Teachers Association (ELTA).  In fact, I was recruited to facilitate a round table discussion about English for Business which is a branch of ESP. (English for Special Purposes).  That will be my primary focus while I am here.  This Friday I will find out about the city where I will be based.  I hope it is Tirana, but it will certainly be in another large city where there is a university where I will teach.

Tirana is a modern city with both classic and modern buildings

Tirana has a modern mall with the best shops from US and Europe

There are many cafes like this in Tirana

I am discussing training materials with a university professor

CAN I BREW YOU A CUP OF TEA?

I have made an interesting discovery here in Albania.  One of the habits I brought with me to Albania was my daily consumption of tea which often started with a strong English breakfast tea and then followed up during the day with green tea.  I even brought my own tea bags with me.  Early in the stay with my host family I learned the Albanian word for tea which conveniently is “chai” and I drew up the courage to ask for hot-water so I could make tea.  It is against this family’s tradition for men to make their own food or drink, except it seems to pour alcohol.  So Dashurie insisted that she serve Mal Chai – or mountain tea.  I reluctantly accepted her hospitality and put my treasured tea bags back into my luggage.

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not my large cup (my camera is not working)

Upon first taste I recognized it as an herb tea and while not as strong as black tea, it was flavorful and very enjoyable with a teaspoon of sugar.  For the last several weeks Dashurie has taken the dried branches and leaves and made a pot of tea for me when I come home from training. I take it gladly and continue to drink  into the night.  Noticing my particularly large consumption, I have now been provided with a very large tea cup which appears near me whenever I am in the central sitting room, where I am drinking it now as I write  this post. 

I decided to check ‘MOUNTAIN TEA” on the internet and here is what I have discovered on Wikipedia.

Sideritis also known as ironwort, mountain tea and shepherd's tea is a genus of flowering plants well known for their use as herbal medicine, commonly as an herbal tea. They are abundant in Mediterranean regions.

In Greek "Sideritis" can be literally translated as "he who is or has the iron". In ancient times Sideritis was a generic reference for plants capable of healing wounds caused by iron weapons during battles. However others hold that the name stems from the shape of the sepal which resembles the tip of a spear.

Very popular in Greece, Albania, Bulgaria and Macedonia, the plant is used as an herb either for the preparation of herbal teas, or for its aromatic properties in local cuisines. The herbal tea is commonly prepared by boiling the stems, leaves and flowers in a pot of water, then often serving with honey and lemon.

Ironwort has been traditionally used to aid digestion, strengthen the immune system and suppress common cold, the flu and other viruses, allergies and shortness of breath, sinus congestion, even pain and mild anxiety.

Scientists have suggested that the popular pronouncement of ironwort as panacea may have some basis in fact. Studies indicate a positive effect on many common ailments. Ironwort is known scientifically to be anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-oxidant. Significant research has been done on ironwort confirming its popular use to prevent colds, flu, and allergies. Most of this research has taken place in universities in the Netherlands and in Greece, Turkey, Macedonia, Bulgaria, and Albania, where the plant is indigenous. Also, modern tests have indicated that the herbal tea helps in the prevention of osteoporosis, while its anti-oxidant properties may aid in the prevention of cancer.

And so, my friends, when I return home I will have these dried branches in my luggage and will brew this wonderful tea for you when we are again together!  

HAPPY BIRTHDAY IN A TRADITIONAL WAY

Farms outside the village center of Labrazhd

According to the Spiral we are all continuing to evolve, individuals and cultures alike.  It is a privilege to experience the cultural blend in this ancient town of Librazhd in a mountain valley of Albania.  Population about 15,000 in the town and surrounding area.

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Yesterday was Saturday and my birthday, but that did not excuse me from attending my Albanian language class at 8 in the morning.  I walked the half mile to the school, starting down the street of tightly packed houses and continuing into one of the shopping streets of the town where store owners and street vendors were setting up their wares for the rush that was soon to come.  The air is still cool this time of year, today the sky was clear and on the mountains in the distance I could see a light covering of new snow that in the valley we experienced as rain.  On the side of the mountain I could see the early greening of the terraced grape vines that have announced the coming of spring for many years.  My thoughts were interrupted by the calling to prayer from the local mosque, I accepted this as a welcome reminder that I too should momentarily abandon my attachments and experience my connection to the divine. 

The mosque next to the school  

 I finished my ten minute walk on winding steps up the hill to the concrete block building where I would meet with five other Americans in training.  I met Zak and Steve outside the building and we stood talking in a pool of sun to warm ourselves before we entered the cold classroom.  Zak and Steve are accomplished mid-career educational professionals looking to add an international capability into their already successful careers.  We will work with adult populations when we complete our training in May. We were soon joined by Jessica, Jefferson and Quinn who are younger and who will help Albanian teachers in high schools in small towns and villages throughout Albania,

After class at one o'clock I retraced my steps back to the house (we do have a coffee break at 10 – I always order a hot chocolate which is more like pudding – the small spoon stands up when placed in the cup!).  The streets were now festive with shoppers, teen girls walking in two or three dressed in their best western jeans, boys standing in groups watching the girls, children playing hopping games with rocks, stray dogs, delivery trucks, occasional cars and sometimes a cow or donkey.  There was calling and shouting in an indecipherable cacophony all around me.

And then, to my surprise, I heard it.  “Hoppy Burthday”  - Along the remainder of my walk home - children, teen boys, men sitting in the sidewalk cafes drinking raki or beer, the beautiful teen girls.  “Hoppy Burthday”  It wasn't everyone, but many. I did not know these people.  My eyes teared as I smiled and acknowledged their warm greetings. 

My host family, who had spread the word, celebrated with me last night in the warm room with the fireplace.  We sang, played dominoes, and ate a special cake.  To the thrill of all in the room, Bettina joined us on Skype and with her ukulele led us all in a verse of Happy Birthday.  They all spoke her name and wished us well as I carried my wife in my arms (on  the lap top) into my room for some private time.! (We have wireless high speed internet!)

A glance at emerging life(mine and theirs) in a traditional village town of an ancient and poor country. Their dream is to transition into a modern economy like the America they experience on the internet, on television, in movies, in popular songs.  I am here to provide support to that transition.

More stories to follow.

Occasionally I am invited to have "coffee."  That is another story to follow.

CULTURAL HISTORY AND THE SPIRAL

As I witness the behaviors and values which distinguish Albania it is evident t that I need to understand the historical context and the effects of Albania's topography and geographical location.  I have crafted a brief history from several articles and conversations. You will also note references to the cultural evolution model at the bottom of this blog.  I mention the color designations for the stages of  value orientations. (Spiral Dynamics) Thanks for indulging me this short academic approach.  I have added some present observations, and there will be more stories to follow.

Geography, topography and history have influenced the present conditions and  mixed cultural values in Albania today

The topography of craggy mountains and winding valleys of Albania (like much of the Balkans) has historically isolated populations into small isolated tribal clusters.(Red) The characteristics of the tribal world view is still part of the cultural blend found in Albania today.  There is a strong connection to family and the Peace Corps staff here tells us to integrate with our families as soon as possible to be absorbed into their extended circle of protection.  While most interactions on the street are friendly, occasionally groups of men cast intimidating stares and occasionally utter challenging comments.  For the young women in the Peace Corps this type of light harassment is more frequent and bothersome
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The cultural evolution to a national identity has been sporadic, largely due to invasions from outside Albania.  Occupiers include the Russians, the Italians, the Germans and the Ottoman Turks.  These invasions attempted to unify the regional groupings into a forced allegiance and traditional values. (Amber). None was more impactful then the 500 year occupation of the Ottoman Turks that has left a lingering influence: gender roles that define male dominance- female subservience, names that reflect Turkish origins, and social customs such as only men out at night.  My host family demonstrates these values as the females do all the house work, prepare and serve the food and clean up afterward.  The husband returns from the town where he has been with his friends.  While the degree varies, we have learned that these are the dominate gender roles throughout the country.

After 50 years under a communist regime (Amber), Albania is emerging into modernity (Orange) which values, rationality, democracy, individualism, and capitalism. This shift is most evident in the capitol city of Tirana where of much of the population has a stronger behavioral blend reflective of a modern worldview.  Genti, our Peace Corps Training Manager who lives in Tirana, has proudly told us that he enjoys cooking for his family and helping out with the routine chores around the house.

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Albanian national policy is to transition to modernity and establish economic and social practices required to become a member of the European Union. The Peace Corps has been invited here to help build the capacities necessary to meet that goal.  I have another month of pre-service training, then I will be assigned to a site where I will begin my work.  I can’t wait.

History lesson over, more stories to follow.

HOME AWAY FROM HOME

LIBRAZHD - where I will live for seven weeks

March 26, 2014

The Peace Corps has placed all volunteers in small towns and villages for seven weeks before we leave to our final sites where we will begin work.  Here we live with host families while we attend language/culture classes and receive technical and safety training.  The families receive a modest stipend for food.

 

The seat of honor is next to the fire place

Each evening finds me in the room that is the center of life for this family who has offered me their home for the next seven weeks.  I am sitting on a love seat against the back wall, the seat they have conferred to me because it is next to the fireplace which is the sole source of warmth for this one story home.  My gaze can easily catch all the activity in the room as I sit with my laptop that has a high speed, Wi-Fi internet connection. There is no heat in the three bedrooms which are the only other rooms in the home beside the foyer and bathroom. 

The center of family life

 Armand, the 17 year old son has just lounged on the sofa facing the omnipresent television.  His father, Aqif was there moments ago before he went to one of the cold bedrooms.  Dashurie, his wife moves about the room tending to others’ needs and the needs of order and cleanliness.  She stops for a moment by the fire for warmth and then moves again from stove to sink, preparing tea for all now that she has finished preparing and serving  and cleaning up after the dinner.  Her gentle support and commands reach out to all her children in the room.  Occasionally she throws Albanian words in my direction and insists that I pronounce them correctly.  Dajana, 15, sits with her brother Endri, 7,  as they scan Facebook together.

Saimir in the US

  They are simultaneously Skyping with their older cousin, Saimir who is in a long haul truck in America completing one leg of his 6000 mile weekly journey.  Today he is delivering fresh produce, which may bring  blueberries and strawberries to my friends and family in Newburyport.  Saimir is glad to talk with me about his love of Albania and also his hope to turn his green card status into citizenship.    The family calls Saimir every day;  it is a joy for him as he spends 16 hours a day in his truck and it is a joy to the family to see his success. 

Dashurie and Dajana

 Endri has just attacked his older brother on the sofa and they wrestle with giggles and grunts.  Endri quickly moves to kiss his mother who laughs with delight.  Aqif briefly returns to demand silence.

Shortly we will all go to our rooms.  They have given me one room to myself, a requirement established by the Peace Corps for all volunteers as we prepare for our final assignment in May.  We will leave the warmth of our host families and move into our own apartments at the site where we will make our contribution to those anxious for essential skills and competencies for this emerging culture.   Tomorrow Aqif will wait yet another day hoping for a phone call that will offer him an assignment to drive a delivery anywhere in Southern or Western Europe.  Dashsurie will prepare breakfast and gather her children off to school before she descends the hillside of tightly placed homes and opens the small roadside stall and sit with her offerings of cigarettes, chips, newspapers, fruits and other sundries.  Occasionally Aqif or one of the older children will spend some hours to provide her opportunity to do others chores. In the evening, at about 8,  Dashurie will return to prepare our evening meal after she has done the shopping.  

Tomorrow will be much the same for this family as it is with the host families of most of the other 40 volunteers who arrived with me in Albania last week.  Again I will sit in this seat offered to all guests of this home.   I will participate only at the edge of their life, noticing with wonder and admiration, as I do now, at this life so different from my own.