TRANSITION TO SHKODER

Last Monday we had the Peace Corps swearing in event when 41 of us made the formal transition from Peace Corps trainee to Peace Corps Volunteer. The US Ambassador to Albania said some nice words and then we made the oath which is virtually the same when the President is sworn into office and when my wife declared herself an American citizen.  In our case we were not asked to defend the country when under threat.  This is the Peace Corps after all.

It has been a long time since I have been in a graduation ceremony with pomp and circumstance.  I had mixed feelings of aloofness and pride.  My spiral journey is largely an exploration of values – both personal and cultural and this event was clearly designed to reinforce values, as was my wife’s when she with hundreds of others became US citizens. As I write this blog post I now recall that even the most mundane social interactions are statements of values.   As are the most dramatic conflicts.

And I am now in Shkroder a city of 120 thousand in the north of Albania near the border with Montenegro.  There will many blog posts about the city of Shkoder, considered one of the most beautiful in Albania, with a large lake to the north, mountains in the east and bordering the Adriatic in the west.

There is a rich history of independence from invaders, religious diversity, and a strong code of hospitality for guests.  You will be hearing more about the Code of Leke, established by an Albanian Prince in the 15^th century to bring order to combative tribal groups. (Spiral development from RED to AMBER – refer to chart at bottom of blog.)  Anthropologists and historians have suggested this code was based on an oral tradition of laws of behavior that dates back to the Bronze Age and represents humanities first struggle to bring order over escalating conflict.  In honor of  this prince the Albanian currency is called Leke. That will change when Albania becomes part of the EU and the Leke gives way to the Euro – as did the French Franc and German Mark –examples of the spiral evolution toward global world views.

You might want to watch a video that provides an overview of Shkoder,  followed by a hilarious video demonstrating that the Albanians are relatively new to cars and their reluctance to give up their walking and bike habits to an automobile culture.  I have already crossed this intersection several times.  You get used to it.  Notice the insignificance of the traffic cop.

An eight minute video produced by a proud citizen of Shkoder

The busiest traffic circle in Shkoder

So, I have begun my transition from the small town of Librazhd to the large city of Shkoder, from trainee to volunteer, from retiree to university TEFL teacher, from the comforts of home and automobile to frequent walks to market to buy a few items at a time to prepare a simple meal. (Not to worry – I can easily find beer and chocolate and my almost daily Skype with Bettina keeps me calm and committed)

More stories to follow.

MIXED VALUES IN THE SPIRAL

This last Friday I was given my site assignment for the next two years. I have been assigned to a university in Shkodër,  Albania. I will be leaving Librazhd in a week and will move into my own apartment after seven weeks with the family Ruppli.  When I announced my future location the family congratulated me on such a beautiful city in a beautiful region, and I also noticed an edge of sadness that I would be so far away.

I have experienced the traditional family values in Albania. Families here demonstrate openly the deep connection we all have to our childhood relationships with close family – our source of warmth, food and protection.  Those relationships are not usurped easily, as they often are in the US, by the urge for independence and identification with peer groups outside the family. The Aqif Ruppli family has culturally embraced me into their family in the last seven weeks and they are feeling a loss at my impending departure.   I, on the other hand, am anxious for my own apartment in Shkoder and the new work relationships I will make with the faculty at the university.  In my immediate experience the values of traditional culture meet the values of modern culture.

Within a short walking distance of this modest home I pass the homes of two brothers, a cherished mother and uncountable cousins.

You can see the unfinished home above for son

On the hill beside this home there is a partially completed structure which will be the future home of the eldest son. As I continue my walk, I notice that virtually every home has gardens occupying all available surrounding ground, and lines of pots where vegetables will emerge soon, grace of the frequent spring rain and coming warmth. Roses and other flowering plants find their place in the botanical arrangements. It is not unusual to see chickens scratching around the edges.

 

Entrance to my home

At the moment there are eight of us in this small living room, eating in turns at the coffee table with the vinyl table cloth that is cleaned fastidiously between each sitting.  The group includes the immediate family, and two cousins and a grandmother spending the week-end from a nearby town.

Family is life in Albania.  They are constantly asking me about mine.

There is laughter and arguing from moment to moment and pleasant smiles as they see me struggling to understand the meaning of these mild outbursts.

Soon I will go to my own apartment in Shkoder and meet my new colleagues and I will choose my own food and  I will drink my chai mal in solitude by an electric heater. I will begin to plan my classes and the other professional contributions I will make. I am happy as I anticipate this freedom from family responsibility and I am aware of the pride I feel in the strength of my independent self-identity.

My journey here is to support the emerging transition into a market economy and consequently the social values that go with modernity. I am glad for the benefits that I have gained with my modern American values of independence, achievement, equality and progress. My experience in Librazhd has made me aware of the values I have given up.

But I have hope as I continue my spiral journey.  This transition from Librazhd to Shkoder has reinforced my belief that, even as I move into my final decades, there are other destinations, more in mind than place, where my values will integrate in new and satisfying blends.

More news of Shkoder to follow.  Check in out on Wikipedia. I am happy with my site.