HAPPY BIRTHDAY IN A TRADITIONAL WAY

Farms outside the village center of Labrazhd

According to the Spiral we are all continuing to evolve, individuals and cultures alike.  It is a privilege to experience the cultural blend in this ancient town of Librazhd in a mountain valley of Albania.  Population about 15,000 in the town and surrounding area.

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Yesterday was Saturday and my birthday, but that did not excuse me from attending my Albanian language class at 8 in the morning.  I walked the half mile to the school, starting down the street of tightly packed houses and continuing into one of the shopping streets of the town where store owners and street vendors were setting up their wares for the rush that was soon to come.  The air is still cool this time of year, today the sky was clear and on the mountains in the distance I could see a light covering of new snow that in the valley we experienced as rain.  On the side of the mountain I could see the early greening of the terraced grape vines that have announced the coming of spring for many years.  My thoughts were interrupted by the calling to prayer from the local mosque, I accepted this as a welcome reminder that I too should momentarily abandon my attachments and experience my connection to the divine. 

The mosque next to the school  

 I finished my ten minute walk on winding steps up the hill to the concrete block building where I would meet with five other Americans in training.  I met Zak and Steve outside the building and we stood talking in a pool of sun to warm ourselves before we entered the cold classroom.  Zak and Steve are accomplished mid-career educational professionals looking to add an international capability into their already successful careers.  We will work with adult populations when we complete our training in May. We were soon joined by Jessica, Jefferson and Quinn who are younger and who will help Albanian teachers in high schools in small towns and villages throughout Albania,

After class at one o'clock I retraced my steps back to the house (we do have a coffee break at 10 – I always order a hot chocolate which is more like pudding – the small spoon stands up when placed in the cup!).  The streets were now festive with shoppers, teen girls walking in two or three dressed in their best western jeans, boys standing in groups watching the girls, children playing hopping games with rocks, stray dogs, delivery trucks, occasional cars and sometimes a cow or donkey.  There was calling and shouting in an indecipherable cacophony all around me.

And then, to my surprise, I heard it.  “Hoppy Burthday”  - Along the remainder of my walk home - children, teen boys, men sitting in the sidewalk cafes drinking raki or beer, the beautiful teen girls.  “Hoppy Burthday”  It wasn't everyone, but many. I did not know these people.  My eyes teared as I smiled and acknowledged their warm greetings. 

My host family, who had spread the word, celebrated with me last night in the warm room with the fireplace.  We sang, played dominoes, and ate a special cake.  To the thrill of all in the room, Bettina joined us on Skype and with her ukulele led us all in a verse of Happy Birthday.  They all spoke her name and wished us well as I carried my wife in my arms (on  the lap top) into my room for some private time.! (We have wireless high speed internet!)

A glance at emerging life(mine and theirs) in a traditional village town of an ancient and poor country. Their dream is to transition into a modern economy like the America they experience on the internet, on television, in movies, in popular songs.  I am here to provide support to that transition.

More stories to follow.

Occasionally I am invited to have "coffee."  That is another story to follow.